May 16, 2014

The Upper Crust

With more and more ‘no reservations’ style restaurants opening in Hong Kong, it’s hard to find a sophisticated place where you don’t have to wait over an hour at the bar, pushing and shoving through throngs of people just trying to get a drink. Thankfully, Upper Modern Bistro, a relatively new addition to the dining scene, is not like that. A modern, minimalistic restaurant, which emphasizes great food in a relaxing environment, an evening here is indeed a sweet escape.

The reason why this PoHo gem is so immaculately executed is the man behind the kitchen, Chef Phillippe Orrico. Formerly of Pierre and St. George, Michelin star Chef Orrico is no stranger to fine establishments and the sort of ambience that diners want while enjoying a meal out.

Chef Orrico’s style of cooking is best summed up in his signature 63-degree poached egg, which is cooked to perfection with mushrooms, crabmeat, and generous shavings of Pata Negra ham. He plays on the heartstrings of diners with reinterpreted familiar fare while introducing more adventurous cuisine that one might find in a high-end gastropub in England. Case in point? Classics like steak tartare and salmon teriyaki are on offer, as are more adventurous ingredients like pig’s trotters and oysters on toast.

Upper Modern Bistro takes liberties in designing a menu that appeals to seasoned gourmands and budding foodies alike. A tapas section introduces indulgent ingredients and showcases the technique of the chef, taking the taste buds on a mini culinary adventure. We were swept away by mini veal burgers, fatty tuna and squab ‘rolls’, and ponzu-doused oysters and continued to be wowed by the equally delicious seafood bruschetta and quail egg buns. We recommend enjoying these bite sized delights by the bar counter, where you can see the master himself at work in his open kitchen.

As with any great chef that has had Michelin restaurant experience, Chef Orrico’s desserts are creative, delicate, and refreshing. The mini chocolate fondants paired with a creamy coffee flavoured ice cream were the perfect end to the night.

On top of the sublime food on offer, equally delicious cocktails and a well-edited wine list are on hand to quench your thirst. So next time you have had it with fighting for a cocktail or waiting hours on end at a restaurant that has a no-booking policy, head down to Upper Modern Bistro in PoHo. Your belly and your sanity will thank you after.

Upper Modern Bistro
6-14 Upper Station Street
Sheung Wan
+852 2517 0977

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